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In late 1989, I worked for an East German company in the Ukraine, where we would spend three months at a time, after which we were flown back to East Germany for a month’s rest. On Thursday, November 9, 1989, I was busy planning my last weekend at home (in northern East Germany) before having to return to Ukraine on Monday, November 13, not knowing that after watching the news later that night all those plans would be abandoned.
At 19:30, I settled in to watch the Aktuelle Kamera (East German News) to hear Günter Schabowski proclaim that at midnight all border crossings will be opening. I was thinking that he was probably talking about the Czech border, which was recently closed due to East Germans trying to get to the West via the West German embassy in Prague. Curious, however, I watched the updated AK at 21:30 and with amazement saw, that in Berlin border crossings into West Berlin had been opened even before midnight, due to the sheer crowds that had gathered in order to see if Schabowski's proclamation would come true.
Bewildered I watched the pictures, knowing that this was an historic event. Immediately, I got into contact with my mother and a cousin of mine and we applied the next morning for visas, which the news stated would be required from November 10 on. Getting the visas at the police station only took minutes, without any hassle or question, and was free of charge — unthinkable just a day earlier.
Together we planned to go on a day trip on Saturday the 11th to the northern city of Lübeck in West Germany, which we thought should be a three- to four-hour drive away.
We left early at dawn in my cousin’s Trabant; by now the border had been open for more than 24 hours, and we were looking forward to our first glimpse at the West. Very soon we noticed that traffic, however, was rolling in one direction only. Barely half way, past the city of Rostock, traffic came to a crawl, we had gotten stuck in the ultimate traffic jam, making our way slowly through winding roads towards the West German border.
Turning around was not an option at that time, as it was uncertain to us if the border would even stay open. Nine hours later we slowly approached West Germany. Returning East Germans were waving from their cars with bananas and coke bottles and our excitement rose. Finally arriving at the border, we were greeted by crowds of West Germans that had come to the border and showered us with flowers, refreshments and chocolates and welcomed us with open arms.
By the time we finally made it to Lübeck, however, stores were closed, and it started to get dark again. Lübeck and it's people adjusted to the new situation, of thousands of stranded visitors, with speed and compassion. Army rations and refreshments were given to stranded East Germans and citizens volunteered places for visitors from the East to stay overnight. We were able spend the night with a family in Travemünde, which was arranged in one of the government buildings in the old town. After we drove to our host family for the night, we were greeted graciously and talked until late in the night, exchanging ideas, memories of the last few days and hopes for the future.
On Sunday, we made our way back home, full with impressions and memories that will last a life time and took days if not months to digest. That weekend in November was truly life forming as it opened my eyes and changed my whole outlook on life.
By Monday, I had to return back to the Ukraine for work. As it turned out, nearly half the people did not show and presumably took their first chance of starting a new life in the West. It was the first sign of the economic changes to come.
Now, 17 years later I still travel through northern Germany whenever I get the chance, these days the trip that took nine-plus hours would take less than two hours on the new A20 Autobahn. The 10-kilometer restricted zone at the former border with numerous turnpikes and watchtowers have all disappeared and one would be hard pressed to have to point out where the border once ran.
From Kai-Uwe Adebahr
Lakewood, Washington
Photo provided by Kai-Uwe Adebahr
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