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The Wine Roads of Germany
Winding through the hilly, gold-green landscape like the tendrils of a vine, Germany's Weinstrassen (wine roads) unfurl a world of pleasure to oenophiles and wine novices alike. These paths delicately nose their way into two millennia of history, from Roman relics to gothic cathedrals, medieval castles, baroque churches and well-preserved villages, revealing the full bouquet of the region. Whether explored on foot, by bicycle or by car, these wine regions promise to stimulate all senses. Here we present a selection of the most famous Weinstrassen and wine-growing regions - Baden and the valleys of the Mosel-Saar Ruwer rivers, the Middle Rhine Valley and the Ahr River Valley. Although the vineyards along the Elbe River in Saxony produce a select crop of dry white wines that may yet usurp Meissen porcelain as the region's "white gold," the most celebrated wines and Weinstrassen are concentrated in the southwest. All of these regions host musical, culinary and, of course, viticultural festivals throughout the year. Summer and fall are the best times to visit, when the broadest range of cultural and recreational activities are offered.
 Baden
A semi-Mediterranean climate and a culture of sun-kissed living bid guests a warm welcome in Baden. The main wine route here, the Badische Weinstrasse, follows the B-3 local highway through many of the most picturesque Black Forest towns, from the spas of Baden-Baden to the grand ruins of Heidelberg's hilltop castle. Onion-domed churches and half-timbered homes dot the fertile orchards and vineyards that meet the eye at every turn. Restaurants - the highest concentration of top-rated eateries in Germany, in fact - are never more than a few kilometers away. These inns, which range from simple to sophisticated, take pride in serving dishes prepared from local ingredients, naturally complimented by the world-class wines that grow everywhere along the south-facing slopes between the towns of Achkarren and Ihringen. A large number of classic grape varieties are grown in Baden but the
Burgunder (pinot) varietal thrives throughout most of the region.
The region's white wines range from the delicate Auxerrois, to
the elegant, food-friendly Weissburgunder (pinot blanc), to the
fashionable Grauburgunder (pinot gris). The luscious Spätburgunder
(pinot noir) is the ruby among Baden reds. Sights to see: 
Baden-Baden: A spa since Roman times, featuring the Kurhaus casino and elegant pump rooms of Kaiseralle. Synonymous with good living since the 18th century. Freiburg:
Well-preserved university town, anchored by the Münster, a masterpiece
of Gothic architecture, with its soaring 384-foot spire. Historic town
hall and merchant halls, and 14th-century inn, "Zum Roten Bären." Kaiserstuhl: Volcanic mountain on the Rhine plain rises up above quaint
villages such as Breisach, offering wonderful biking or hiking to the
summit, where an expansive view awaits. Pack a picnic of local breads
and sausages - and don't forget a corkscrew!
Heidelberg: Legendary castle looms grandly over picturesque old town and gently flowing Neckar River. The castle, built between the 14th and 17th centuries on the summit of the Jettenbühl hill (elevation 640 feet), houses the world's largest wooden wine vat in its cellar. Constructed in 1751 from 130 oak tree trunks, it can store more than 58,000 gallons of local wine.
True wine connoisseurs know that the nearby valleys of the Mosel River and its tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer, are the setting for Germany's most exceptional wines and perhaps loveliest scenery. From Perl, the point where France, Germany and Luxemburg clink glasses over a common border, the Mosel flows some 150 miles to join the mighty Rhine at Koblenz. The principal Weinstrasse here runs parallel to the Mosel, passing through scores of famed wine villages, such as Zell, Bernkastel and Piesport. Hikers can enjoy breathtaking panoramas from the heights of the Moselhöhenweg trails on both sides of the river. The landscape and its wines can also be pleasurably savored on a leisurely river cruise.
Among the many vestiges of Roman settlements in this area, none is more
prevalent, or delicious, than the grapes that continue to flourish in
the limestone soils of the Mosel banks 2,000 years after they were first
planted. The Riesling variety boasts a healthy acidity well-suited for
sparkling wine production.
Trier, the region's wine and cultural capital, hosts many international tastings and auctions throughout the year. An insider's tip: the Terrassenmosel, terraced sites dotting the Mosel's banks, are home to many local vintners and chefs who take pleasure in turning out exquisite pairings of grape and game for guests. This is one of Germany's largest wine-producing regions. The fragrant
whites, rich in acidity and fruit flavors, are delicate yet expressive.
The very finest gracefully age into sought-after rarities that fetch fortunes
at auction. Main sights to see: Bernkastel-Kues: Medieval town with market square of half-timbered houses; town hall built in 1608; Cusanusstift, founded as hospital, with late-gothic cloister, library, wine museum and tasting room/shop. Burg Eltz:
A magnificent castle built between the 9th and 13th centuries, fortified
home of imperial Hohenstaufen family for generations. Accessible only
by foot! A hike up the (steep) hill and through vineyards affords the
intrepid a king's view of the surrounding countryside. A shuttle bus to
the foot of a short path that leads directly to the castle is also available
from the nearby town of Moselkern.
Zell: Distinctive landmark is its Round Tower, a remnant of earlier fortifications; roman baths, an historic synagogue and elector's castle, built in 1320. For many visitors, no trip to Germany would be complete without a few days along the spectacular stretch of the Rhine River between Bingen and Bonn known as the Rhine Gorge. Here the river has carved its course through the stone hills to form a steep, narrow valley with a microclimate in which vines have thrived since Roman times. On both sides of the river, in addition to the routes that run parallel with it, motorists and cyclists can enjoy the scenery from the heights via the Rheingoldstrasse or the Loreley-Burgstrasse. Hiking enthusiasts can follow the clearly marked Rhein-Wein-Wanderweg or the Weinwanderweg trails.
The ancient castle ruins that tower over vine-covered cliffs and medieval villages are reminders of the Middle Rhine's turbulent past. Today, most are open for visits and offer outstanding panoramic views of the valley. A castle terrace, the deck of a Rhine steamer or a rustic wine pub in a half-timbered house are memorable settings in which to enjoy a glass of wine. Yet the visitor's delight is the vintner's plight: The steep slate cliffs of the region are dramatically beautiful, but extremely labor intensive to cultivate. Acreage devoted to grape growing shrinks every year. Still, crisp, fragrant Riesling wines remain the hallmark of the area.
While Germany's white wines serve ably as the country's viticultural ambassadors the world over, its lesser-known reds are pleasures waiting to be discovered. The Ahr River Valley is a red-wine-lover's paradise, at its peak in autumn, when vineyards and forests are ablaze with color and wine festivals are held every weekend. Signposts showing a cluster of red grapes signal two routes through the region: For motorists, the Rotweinstrasse (B-266 and B-267 highways); for hikers, the Rotweinwanderweg, a trail that winds its way into the Eifel hills. Another way to discover the region's wines and hospitality is to follow the Ahr-Radtour, a well-marked loop trail for cyclists, which begins at Remagen and circles back to the Rhine. Those who run out of steam can return by train - bicycles "ride" for free. The wine market in Ahrweiler, a medieval town at the heart of the Ahr valley, is held every May and offers a comprehensive overview of the region's wines. For three days, the historical market square is transformed into a bustling, open-air tasting room, where visitors can sample dozens of regional wines. This is a rare treat, since these coveted wines are produced in such small quantities that most are consumed locally and never make it to export. The Spätburgunder grown in this region assumes the unmistakable aroma of fresh raspberries. The current trend is to age such wines in small oak casks to balance the delicate and astringent flavors. Two categories of wine are allowed by the European Union: table wine (Tafelwein, Landwein) and quality wine (Qualitätswein). The latter category is further subdivided into "b.A." (bestimmte Anbaugebiete, or distinct growing regions) - light, refreshing, fruity wines meant to be enjoyed young - and "mit Predikat" - elegant, noble wines well suited to long aging. Sekt is Germany's sparkling wine; it is less austere, fruitier and lower in alcohol than French champagne. There are six ascending levels of ripeness and acidity: Kabinett - elegant wines made from fully ripened grapes; low in
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